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Wildlife Care - Care and Feeding

Environment Cleaning Feeding
Behaviour Stress Environment Feeding Recovery
Behaviour Stress Environment Cleaning Feeding Recovery

 

 General Care of Adults

Environment

Animals that are in shock, weak, emaciated, injured or very ill should not be kept outdoors. They should be protected from the elements, their environment sheltered and warm. Comfortable, clean bedding or substrates should be provided for those that require them.

Many animals will require supplemental heat. Temperature-controlled incubators, brooder lamps or heating pads are effective. The animal should be able to move away from the heat source if it so desires. Lamps and heating pads must be used with caution, to ensure the animal is not burned or overheated. A heating pad must be in good condition, and the animal should not come in direct contact with it. The pad should be wrapped in a thick layer of towel, and should be used only on the "low" setting. If heating pads or lamps are used, electrical cords must be kept away from the patient, so that it cannot 'chew' wiring or become entangled.

Cleaning

If the animal has diarrhea or cannot move well, it must be cleaned so that feces do not harden and prevent defecation or urination or irritate the skin. Bedding or substrate should be cleaned if damp or soiled.

Feeding

Never force feed an animal that is cold, dehydrated, emaciated, in shock, convulsing, semi-conscious or unconscious. Stabilize and warm it first, and treat shock or injuries. Rehydrate the animal; if it is emaciated, follow emaciation protocol (see nutrition).

If the animal is capable of feeding itself, allow it to do so. Offer food and water ad lib. If the animal cannot feed itself but is capable of chewing/swallowing food, offer it pieces of food from tweezers. If the animal cannot or will not eat, it may need to be fed via feeding tube. Ensure that the feeding mixture has sufficient water to meet the animal's fluid requirement and that the foods used are natural to it. For example, a rabbit might be fed alfalfa pellets that have been ground to powder and blended with water until smooth. An insectivorous bird might be fed insects (corrected with calcium) blended with water until smooth. A squirrel might be fed acorns, peanuts and rodent blocks, blended with water until smooth. A bird of prey might be fed blended defrosted mice, and so on.

Vitamin C should be added to all captive diets in appropriate amounts, typically 50-100 mg/kg of food.


Specific and reliable information on the care of wildlife in rehabilitation is not readily available on the Internet. There are a number of rehabilitation manuals published in North America. Most are not peer reviewed and information may range from poor to reliable.

A list of rehabilitation manuals can be viewed at http://www.wildliferehabtoday.com/

 Birds

Behaviour

Small birds may peck at the ground in an effort to soothe themselves. Some birds may seem depressed and huddle quietly. Others attempt to hide. Signs of agitation or fear include ruffling of feathers or flicking of the tail or wings, as well as repetitive attempts to escape the housing. An aggressive bird may hunch forward in a threatening posture, fanning its tail and/or opening its mouth. For more information on psychology and behaviour, click here.

Stress

Birds are extremely sensitive to captive stress, since nearly all species perceive humans as predators. Signs of stress in birds include open-mouth breathing, 'clicking' related to breathing, and vocalizations (screams, cries, etc.). Many birds, however, are silent when stressed. The eyes may be wide open and fixed on one object, or the nictitating membrane may go up. Heart rate and temperature increase. The bird may experience diarrhea.

If the bird is too stressed to handle, it may help to dim the lights. If the bird requires treatment, it will be calmer if it cannot see. A hood or a hand across the eyes may be enough to relax it.

The cage should be in a very quiet place. It should be draped with translucent material (e.g., bedsheet or paper towels) so the bird can see to eat and drink but feel enclosed and safe. Cage cleaning may be better left until late evening, when the bird is sleepy. The stress of cleaning the cage of a perching bird can be minimized if the walls and top a single piece separate from the bottom/floor. The upper part can be gently moved to a new, clean substrate with little disturbance to the occupant.

Follow the bird's natural sleep/wake cycle; remember that an owl, for example, will be additionally stressed if it is fed or forced into activity during the day.

Environment

If the bird is weak or injured and cannot perch at a normal height, evaluate its abilities. If it is able to stand and its feet can grip, offer it a low perch that allows the tail to clear the floor of the enclosure. If the feet will not grip or if it is a species that does not perch, a log, block of wood, box, or a rolled towel can be used. Its substrate should mimic its natural substrate (e.g. bark, grass, sand, gravel, etc.).

If the bird is not able to stand, reduce pressure on the keel by creating a 'nest' of rolled towels to support it. Check the bird frequently: a bird that cannot move normally or that cannot stand may have trouble eliminating. The vent may become caked with feces, and if feces are not removed, the bird may not be able to defecate (with serious consequences). The vent, tail feathers and legs/feet may be cleaned with a warm damp cloth or cotton swabs.

Feeding

If the bird is debilitated and cannot feed itself, it must be hand-fed. Methods depend upon the problem the individual is experiencing. In some cases, tube feeding is necessary. In other cases, small pieces of food can be placed at the back of the throat. Care must be taken to prevent food or water from entering the glottis.

Put food to the back of the throat, at the bird's right side. Solid foods (e.g., pieces of fish, insects, pieces of fruit, etc. depending upon species) may be placed in the mouth towards the back of the throat. The bird must swallow the food before more is given.

Clean spilled foods from the feathers or bill as soon as the feeding is complete. Hardened food can cause feather damage, skin irritation, and can lead to bacterial infection. Use warm water and a clean soft cloth or cotton swabs.

If the bird is able to self-feed but is not standing, place a shallow feeding platter before it. Position the platter so that the bird can reach the food comfortably. A shallow bowl for drinking water should also be placed within easy reach.

For many species, even those for which live food is a minority of the normal diet, moving prey (insects, earthworms, fish) is a strong stimulus to eat.

Recovery

When the bird has recovered to the point where it does not require supplemental heat, can stand and has enough control to roost or perch, it can be graduated to a larger enclosure. The enclosure should offer it a measure of privacy and enough room to move comfortably. Substrate, roosts and perches should be natural, and of the type the bird would use in nature. If it has impaired mobility, offer food and water on the ground, in shallow dishes. A bird that is in wing wrap or bandages, unsteady or that doesn't see well can drown in very little water. Offer just enough water for drinking. As the bird's condition improves and, if injured, it has regained use of its wings and legs, dust baths, baths/pools, etc. can be introduced.

When the bird is fully recovered, in good flesh and ready for flight conditioning, it should be moved to an appropriately sized aviary, weather and season permitting. A neotropical migratory bird cannot tolerate cold, thus must be wintered indoors if it has missed migration.

The bird should be conditioned to the outdoors slowly so that it can adapt to night temperatures. When the bird is conditioned to the outdoors, begin to offer its natural diet, and foods that are in season. Upon release, the bird must be digesting the foods it will find in nature.

 Mammals

Behaviour

Signs of fear and aggression in mammals are species-specific. Animals such as rabbits may freeze when they feel threatened, eyes staring at one spot. They may tremble, pant, vocalize (cries, screams) and some may cry. Signs of aggression include 'puffing up', foot stamping, tails bristling or spreading, hackles or fur rising, growling and other threatening vocalizations, spitting, snorting, head thrusting, etc. The position and movement of the tail can be telling. An animal that lowers its head or stamps its feet may be preparing to lunge or charge.

Stress

Signs of stress are species-specific and may include trembling, panting, elevated temperature and heart rate, crying/soft vocalizations, huddling, dejection, depression and diarrhea. The animal may pace or move about in stereotypical patterns, or lick or bite itself.

Environment

If the animal is weak or injured and cannot stand, it should be bedded down. Depending upon species and the animal's size, this may involve blankets, straw, towels, etc. If the animal is able to stand, substrate should be as close to natural as possible. If it is a species that normally nests, offer it a nesting box or pet carrier with comfortable bedding.

Cleaning

Blood, urine, feces, vomit and food should be washed from the fur with a damp warm cloth, so that it does not harden and cause fur loss, skin irritation or allow bacterial growth. Do not soak the fur, as the animal will become chilled. Clean bedding or substrate frequently, and if straw is used, check the animal for ectoparasites.

Feeding

When the animal is able to self-feed but has not regained normal movement, place shallow food and water dishes within reach and at a suitable height. Diets must be based upon the animal's natural foods, but it may be necessary to present the foods in such a way that the animal can manage them. For example, a squirrel recovering from a jaw injury would require pureed foods until the injury heals, and it would be introduced to whole foods gradually.

Recovery

When the animal has recovered to the point where it does not require supplemental heat, can stand and has enough control to move to food and water, it can be graduated to a larger enclosure. The enclosure should offer it a measure of privacy and enough room to move comfortably. Substrate should be natural, and of the type the animal would use in nature.

When the animal is fully recovered, in good flesh and ready for exercise and conditioning, it should be moved to an appropriately sized pen or enclosure, weather and season permitting. A species that hibernates (e.g. bat, bear, chipmunk) or semi-hibernates (squirrel, raccoon, etc.) will have to be provided with appropriate conditions and release may have to be deferred until spring. If a mammal has been in care for a short time and it is known without a doubt where the animal originated, late fall or early winter release is possible. However, if the animal's origin is not known, especially if it is a species that 'stashes' food for winter (e.g. squirrel), release should be deferred until natural foods are once again plentiful. Prior to release, the animal's diet must include the foods that are available in nature at the season of release.

 Reptiles and Amphibians

The signs of stress in reptiles and amphibians are varied and species-specific. They include lethargy, digging, snout banging, changes in skin colour, changes in urination and defecation, changes in appetite, dehydration, pale mouth, and other physiological changes.

Because of their permeable skin, an improper substrate or environment can quickly kill amphibians.

Excellent information on all aspects of care can be found on the following websites:

Melissa Kaplan's Herp Care Collection

The Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians